最美湖鄉(xiāng)，讓你的腳步不由自主慢下來——2016年湖南郴州市坳上古村自助游攻略

發(fā)布時間：2016年01月27日編輯：鸞七訪問：26840次評論：32條發(fā)表評論！糾錯！

所屬地區(qū)：	湖南郴州	適合人群：	所有人	出游難度：	輕松
適合天數(shù)：	1-2天	花費預(yù)算：	300元	適合時間：	全年
可信標(biāo)志：	（本攻略已通過所有細(xì)節(jié)核實，讀者可放心參考。）
攻略標(biāo)簽：	郴州坳上古村蘇仙區(qū) 古建筑文化歷史湖南最美古村落				◎切換到圖文完整版

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（坳上古村，驚艷了時光作者：黃建華）
　　流光帶走了無數(shù)前塵舊事，也湮沒了無數(shù)曾經(jīng)燦爛的古建筑?？墒牵傆幸恍﹫皂g的古村落，熬過了風(fēng)雨的侵狂，展現(xiàn)著他們頑強的生命力。即便容顏滄桑，卻仍留給世人驚艷一瞥。坳上古村便是如此，承載著數(shù)百年歷史的64幢古建筑，驚艷了時光。
　　行走于“湖南最美古村落”坳上古村，仿佛穿越了數(shù)百年。我不經(jīng)意地放輕腳步，唯恐驚擾了這片世外桃源。
　　明清風(fēng)格的傳統(tǒng)磚木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑遍布全村，青磚黛瓦，青石板路，蜿蜒巷弄，清逸的古宅廳堂，精美的雕刻……臥于鄉(xiāng)野之間，寧靜悠然，宛若一幅雅致的水墨畫，訴說著古村的故事。
　　坳上古村如一壇密封的陳年老酒，在時間里醞釀。徜徉在古屋和石巷，仿佛回到了歷史的長河，令人回味無窮、久久不肯離去。如果你厭倦了喧囂嘈雜的都市生活，那么就來坳上的古村落！漫步在絕美古村的小巷里，感受悠悠歲月，體味醇香生活……
　?。ㄎ淖肿髡撸涸鏄s）

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航拍最美湖鄉(xiāng)——坳上古村落來源：郴州網(wǎng)

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冬去春來，又是一年的菜花香作者：佚名

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傳統(tǒng)與現(xiàn)代交織，這是一個古村滄桑的堅守作者：黃志勇

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青磚黛瓦，寧靜悠然作者：好攝之徒

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這里仍保留有承載著數(shù)百年歷史的64幢古建筑作者：佚名

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明清風(fēng)格的傳統(tǒng)磚木結(jié)構(gòu)建筑遍布全村作者：陳潔

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見證坳上古村的古建筑之美作者：陳潔

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坳上村民宅門口的雕刻，別具特色作者：佚名

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雪后的冬日古村，充滿了地道的年味兒作者：黃關(guān)海

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在坳上村，依然可以讓你找到童年記憶作者：佚名

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傳統(tǒng)美食炸套環(huán)，香脆回潤，味道可口作者：佚名

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六個大環(huán)套著六個小環(huán)，意蘊六六大順，闔家團圓作者：佚名

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坳上古村釀酒源遠(yuǎn)流長，傳統(tǒng)釀酒的技藝更可以在這里親身體驗到作者：佚名

坳上古村景點介紹

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（被譽為“湖南最美古村落”的坳上古村作者：黃志勇）
　　郴州蘇仙區(qū)坳上古村坐落于坳上鎮(zhèn)，是典型的湘南傳統(tǒng)村落。整個村莊處于“龍形”，上頭塆是“龍頭”，下頭塆是“龍身”，臥于“兩水”(指東河和西河)腹地。這座湘南最典型的傳統(tǒng)村落，距今有800多年，為李姓家族，始祖皋陶公，唐西平忠武王李晟為李氏祖先，相傳唐代宗大歷年間，任右神策軍都將，鎮(zhèn)壓各地叛亂，為唐皇朝建功立業(yè)。
　　村落近一百幢清代風(fēng)格傳統(tǒng)磚木結(jié)構(gòu)的房屋依山而建，層層迭迭、錯落有致，高低搭配、首尾相接，鱗次櫛比、連成一片，院落與院落之間青石板路回環(huán)相通。整個古建筑格調(diào)統(tǒng)一，規(guī)劃整齊、結(jié)構(gòu)緊湊、布局合理；歷史風(fēng)貌保存完好，三雕（磚雕、石雕、木雕）雕刻精美，工藝精湛，惟妙惟肖，充分體現(xiàn)了清朝時期的建筑風(fēng)格，是郴州迄今保存較完美的古建筑群之一，2011年被列入了省級文物保護單位。

　　景區(qū)地址：湖南省郴州市蘇仙區(qū)坳上鎮(zhèn)坳上古村
　　景區(qū)門票：無
　　景區(qū)電話：0735-2885059（蘇仙區(qū)旅游局）

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（坳上趕年會，體驗地道十足的年味兒作者：黃建華）
2016年春節(jié)“坳上趕年會”活動
　　殺年豬、做豆腐、寫春聯(lián)、做套花、釀米酒……如果這些年味十足的鄉(xiāng)間民俗都在一個有著數(shù)百年歷史的古村一一呈現(xiàn)，將會是一種怎樣的景象？
　　2016年1月31日，一場囊括了以上內(nèi)容的趕年會將在蘇仙區(qū)坳上鎮(zhèn)的坳上古村舉行。據(jù)介紹，坳上趕年會現(xiàn)場將宰殺、銷售過年豬（農(nóng)家土豬）、過年牛（高山黃牛）、過年羊，現(xiàn)場制作50公分大套花，還有專人帶領(lǐng)參觀坳上古民居。在古村豆腐坊，10位當(dāng)?shù)卮迕駥⑦呑龆垢?，邊演唱傳承百年的做豆腐歌，游客則可以一邊欣賞一邊品嘗豆?jié){、豆花等。更有當(dāng)?shù)靥谆ㄖ谱鞲呤脂F(xiàn)場教授做套花，有興趣的話可以在古村里體驗一把。
　　坳上古村釀酒源遠(yuǎn)流長，至今仍保留著葛根酒、黑米酒、紅薯酒、高梁酒、米酒、糊汁酒等多種釀酒傳統(tǒng)。趕年會當(dāng)天，你也可以欣賞到傳統(tǒng)的釀酒方式和過程。
　　2016坳上趕年會相關(guān)報名頁面：
　　http://www.chenzhou.com.cn/zt/2016/

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（坳上古村中的八角屋來源：郴州網(wǎng)）
古村故事&推薦游玩點
　　傳奇八角屋
　　八角屋是位于坳上古村的南邊最后一棟房子，因造型怪異，做工精美，規(guī)模較大，村民稱它為“八角屋”。據(jù)說這座房子的房主，身為一名實力雄厚的大財主，平時比較愛炫耀，與人相處不太融洽，嫌貧愛富。本來他想砌一棟方方正正的房子，可自己所擁有的宅基卻偏偏凹凸缺角，呈現(xiàn)出八個角的狀態(tài)。為了砌出方方正正的房子，他特意找鄰居商量買地，鄰居見他平時趾高氣揚，不同意讓出那塊地，他便企圖用重金來打動鄰居，提出在那塊地上能鋪下多少銀元就出多少銀元來買，可是，銀元從一層、兩層一直鋪到五層，鄰居卻不為金錢所動，寸土不讓，顯示出了自己的尊嚴(yán)。財主大失所望，感嘆金錢也不是萬能的，只好按照自己的地基，砌成了現(xiàn)在的八角屋。此事至今傳為佳話。
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（神秘的村中古墓來源：郴州網(wǎng)）
　　古墓就在家門口
　　古墓居然就在家門口，聽起來都覺得不可思議，可在坳上古村，卻真的有這么一座古墓，就座落在家門口，換作一般人，估計會覺得害怕，不過，對于坳上的村民來說，這座古墓卻是一道獨特的風(fēng)景。遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)望去，這座古墓呈圓孤形，墓高約2米多，中間立有一個寬約一尺多、高約兩尺多的青石墓碑，右邊抬頭豎刻“道光四年十月（1825年）”，中間刻下“古墓”兩字，左邊刻著“斈李花彩立”；按字面分析，這塊碑應(yīng)該是道光四年十月立的，距今189年?！皵摹蓖皩W(xué)”，大概這塊石碑是一個名為李花彩的學(xué)生為恩師立的?？墒?，中間為什么只寫古墓不寫人名，難道是墓主人的學(xué)生李花彩怕墳?zāi)箾]有標(biāo)識，為了保存墳?zāi)固匾鉃槎鲙熈⒌谋?，可為何又不留名，成了一個無名碑？令人費解。
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（如今的古井來源：郴州網(wǎng)）
　　古井院內(nèi)上把鎖
　　在坳上古村，時不時可以看到保存完好的水井，清澈的井水源源不絕，哺育著一代又一代的坳上人。在最原始的宗祠老屋場對面，有一口保存完好的水井。井在一個三面圍墻的凹坎下面，挑水要沿石階走下去。井口是用一個青石雕成的大圓口鏤空的立式井圍。據(jù)說原來建有一個槽門，與井旁三面圍墻形成一個院落，井就在院落中間，而且平時門都是鎖著，挑水時才打開，村民猜測，給古井院門上鎖一是為了保持井水干凈；二是為了安全，因為是吊井，怕小孩掉下去；三是怕有人心懷不軌投毒丟臟物下去。不得不說，這“墻外池塘蛙聲歡，古井清幽圍墻攔”的景觀，實屬奇特。
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（見證坳上古村輝煌歷史的古錢莊來源：郴州網(wǎng)）
　　銅墻鐵壁古錢莊
　　坳上古村當(dāng)年經(jīng)濟的繁榮，從古村的建筑規(guī)?？梢娨话摺Ｔ谯晟瞎糯?，早年就已經(jīng)出現(xiàn)了氣派的錢莊，現(xiàn)在仍保存完好。在坳上村中央，有一塊籃球場大的空坪，青石鋪就的古道依然保存完好，它南北貫通，縱橫交錯，是清代客商往來的繁華地段。大屋左側(cè)面成直角凸出，開了一個門，此門銅墻鐵壁，堅固厚重。在門上，還能清晰看見刻的圖案，門中間鏨刻八卦圖，圈外刻有芙蓉花；下面用銅錢組圖，兩個外圓內(nèi)方的銅錢并立兩旁，銅錢中方鏤空，凸顯出錢的標(biāo)識，而鏤空的方孔還能用做防衛(wèi)的槍眼和施放暗器。可想而知，當(dāng)時坳上村的繁榮景象。
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（曾經(jīng)繁榮無比的馬房丘，如今遺跡早已難尋來源：郴州網(wǎng)）
　　馬房丘
　　坳上的繁榮還不止于此，在坳上古村長大的李回芽指著村前一大片種滿蔬菜的地說，這個地方叫“馬房丘”，原來是專門養(yǎng)馬、養(yǎng)騾的地方。古時的坳上村依托湘粵古道重要交通位置和絡(luò)繹不絕的往來商人，逐步形成了“地主”之都和糧食買賣中心，坳上村的財力逐漸強勢，還形成了專門的運輸隊伍，運鹽、糧食等物品，于是便起有專門的房子，用于養(yǎng)馬、養(yǎng)騾。不過，很可惜，這些建筑后來都被損毀了。
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（滄桑古樹來源：郴州網(wǎng)）
　　七百年板栗樹
　　坳上古村內(nèi)還有一株七百多年的板栗樹，長滿青苔的粗壯樹干，約摸要三個大人才能抱住。樹皮斑駁，卻是枝繁葉茂。更今人稱奇的是，這棵板栗樹是“橫”著生長的，為了保護古樹，坳上人在50年代就特意砌了一座石墩，托住古樹，也足可見坳上人對古樹深厚的感情。這棵歷經(jīng)數(shù)百年的古樹，見證了世間什么樣的風(fēng)云變幻？令人無限遐想。

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（夕照板梁，古老的村莊仿佛鍍上了一層金色作者：馬來）
周邊景區(qū)
　　板梁古村，三湘四水間散落的遺珠
　　板梁村歷史久遠(yuǎn)，初建于宋末元初，強盛于明清時代，距今有600多年歷史。整個古村占地3平方公里，背靠象嶺平展延伸，依山就勢。村前視野開闊，小河繞村而下，三大古祠村前排列，古驛道穿村而過，石板路連通大街小巷。村前有七層古塔，進(jìn)村有石板古橋，村內(nèi)建有廟祠亭閣，舊私塾，還有古商街、古錢莊。被譽為規(guī)模最大，保存最全，風(fēng)水最好，文化底蘊最厚重的“湘南第一村”。
　　地址：湖南省郴州市永興縣高亭鎮(zhèn)板梁村（毗鄰馬田鎮(zhèn)和悅來溫泉旅游度假山莊）
　　門票：50元/人
　　電話：0735-5868288
　　更多詳細(xì)介紹：http://www.casasissi.cn/route/8034/

　　小東江，來看中國最詩意的霧
　　湖南資興市旁邊那條小江，人們一直管它叫小東江，因為24年前截江成功而成了一個大湖——東江湖。而東江湖的晨霧之美卻是在近年才被人發(fā)現(xiàn)的，旋即成了一個攝影的熱點。沒有霧色的小東江很不起眼非常普通，但當(dāng)水汽升騰，云蒸霞蔚，這時景色漸入佳境。，有道是：“曲曲彎彎水，重重疊疊山，無窮無盡樹，不冷不熱天”。有“湘南洞庭”之稱的東江湖集山的靈秀、水的神韻于一體，特別七、八、九三個月因為氣溫晝夜變化所致的晨霧，如仙如幻，是一個最好的出游看點。
　　地址：湖南省東南部的資興境內(nèi)
　　門票：52元（包含：霧漫小東江、猴古山瀑布、東江大壩外景、龍景峽谷、東江湖）
　　電話：0735-3356623
　　最佳季節(jié)：7-9月，此時江霧較多較大，易于拍攝
　　更多詳細(xì)介紹：http://www.casasissi.cn/route/7993/

坳上古村出游地圖

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坳上古村交通方位示意圖

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郴州景區(qū)分布示意圖

坳上古村當(dāng)?shù)亟煌?/h3>
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（距離郴州市不過十幾公里的坳上古村，交通很便利作者：黃建華）
　　坳上古村位于郴州坳上鎮(zhèn)坳上村坳上鄉(xiāng)，一般可在郴州天龍站或郴州的食品加工城坐去坳上的中巴車，車次較多，車票4元或4.5元，下車后沿著通往坳上集市的路走下去，經(jīng)過一座小橋，看到一塊村記石碑，往左拐，繼續(xù)走，坳上古村很快就展示在你面前，步行只需要十來分鐘。坳上古村不收費，村民非常熱情和友好。
　　從湖南省外去坳上古村一般需要在郴州中轉(zhuǎn)，然后在汽車站乘客車前往。省內(nèi)則推薦自駕，靈活且方便。

到達(dá)郴州
　　火車
　　郴州有兩個火車站：郴州站和郴州西站。郴州西站是高鐵站，乘坐高鐵到郴州一般都到西站。

　　郴州站
　　地址：郴州市解放路1號
　　電話：0735-2227473
　　交通：乘坐2路，11路，13路，14路等路公交在【火車站】下車即到。

　　郴州西站
　　地址：郴州市北湖區(qū)增湖路
　　交通：乘坐18路，55路到【火車西站】下車即到。

　　客車
　　郴州汽車總站
　　地址：郴州市國慶北路17號
　　電話：0735-2479538

　　天龍汽車站
　　地址：郴州市開發(fā)區(qū)萬華路1號
　　電話：0735-2476633

到達(dá)坳上古村
　　到達(dá)郴州市后可以在郴州天龍汽車站乘坐客車至坳上村，票價4元。

郴州-坳上古村自駕線路推薦
　　郴州市區(qū)——槐萬路——坳上鎮(zhèn)政府——坳上村

坳上古村當(dāng)?shù)刈∷?/h3>
　　坳上古村內(nèi)無住宿，推薦在郴州市內(nèi)住宿，條件較好并且交通方便。

推薦住宿
　　子衿大酒店
　　地址：郴州市北湖區(qū)七里大道63號(廣電中心斜對面)
　　電話：0735-2177711
　　價格：標(biāo)準(zhǔn)間139元/天

　　郴州粵凱酒店
　　地址：郴州市飛虹路龍騰廣場生活大師A棟
　　電話：0735-2823333
　　價格：標(biāo)準(zhǔn)間168元/天

坳上古村當(dāng)?shù)仫嬍?/h3>
　　坳上古村傳統(tǒng)加工制作方法的節(jié)日食品較豐富：春節(jié)食用的飯茶類主要有：套環(huán)、麻花梗、麻脆、凍米糖花、油瓜片、毯皮、紅薯皮等；菜類主要有：走油肉、臘肉、香腸、扎腸、扎腳、多種豆制品等。端陽節(jié)食用的主要有：各種口味的粽子。中秋節(jié)食用的有：糕筋叭、桐子葉靶。

推薦餐飲
　　坳上鎮(zhèn)的名翔大酒店（用餐需提前預(yù)定）
　　地址：位于坳上鎮(zhèn)，從坳上鎮(zhèn)市場右轉(zhuǎn)100米即到，是“2016坳上趕年會”用餐接待點之一。
　　電話：18975587766
　　2016坳上趕年會相關(guān)報名頁面：
　　http://www.chenzhou.com.cn/zt/2016/

坳上古村行程規(guī)劃

　　坳上古村不大，而且不能在村內(nèi)住宿，至多一天時間足可游完，之后推薦返回郴州市內(nèi)住宿。如果趕上夏季去的話，推薦到郴州的小東江看看那傳說中的中國最具詩意的霧，并且那兒的東江湖風(fēng)光也非常漂亮，可另花一天時間游覽。

坳上古村其他信息

◎
（清逸的古宅廳堂作者：佚名）
關(guān)于坳上古村那些事兒
　　龍脊上的經(jīng)濟文化中心
　　坳上古村整個村莊呈“龍形”，上頭塆是“龍頭”，下頭塆是“龍身”，臥于“兩水”(指東河和西河，形象地叫“兩水夾金”)腹地。在“龍頭”兩側(cè)建有兩個寶塔，俗稱“字紙塔”，形似龍角，意在求得村莊文人輩出，世代昌盛。而與附近村子相連接的青石板路，則恰形似龍須。在上頭塆與下頭塆之間，有三處石階相連，這三處石階分別叫南坳、中坳、北坳。坳上村之所以被稱為“坳上”，是因人們走出或走進(jìn)村莊，要經(jīng)過村后上頭塆的南、中、北3個坳口。
　　坳上古村經(jīng)歷了3個發(fā)展時期，時間跨度約200年，歷經(jīng)無數(shù)崢嶸歲月后，盡管損毀程度令人扼腕，卻仍然是迄今為止郴州乃至全國少有的保存較為完好的古村落之一。村內(nèi)現(xiàn)留存明清風(fēng)格傳統(tǒng)磚木結(jié)構(gòu)的古建筑64幢，房屋依山就勢而建，絕大多數(shù)坐西朝東，層層迭迭，錯落有致。房屋之間頗有規(guī)劃地形成“井”字形小巷，中間依靠縱橫其間的青石板連接。每一排房子的前后和兩側(cè)，也由呈“井”字形分布的暗溝環(huán)繞，溝上覆蓋大塊大塊的青石板，在適當(dāng)處也會將暗溝變成明溝，為村民提供用水。漫步其中探古尋宗，給人最大的感覺是，這個古村整個古建筑格調(diào)統(tǒng)一，規(guī)劃整齊，結(jié)構(gòu)緊湊，布局合理。
　　在坳上村西面10公里處有一條著名的“湘粵古道”，是古代溝通中原與嶺南一帶的交通要道。坳上村依托湘粵古道重要交通位置和絡(luò)繹不絕的往來商人，逐步形成了“地主”之都和糧食買賣中心，雖不是古道旁集市卻勝似集市。明清年間，坳上村的財力逐漸強勢，促成對外的影響力。進(jìn)入民國，粵漢鐵路在譚家后山（羊角嶺山下）修建了火車站，并命名為“坳上火車站”，沿用至今；郴縣秀才鄉(xiāng)政府，也因其影響力而被設(shè)在坳上塆；現(xiàn)坳上鎮(zhèn)的名字，也是源自于坳上村。坳上村當(dāng)時的政治地位可見一斑。
◎
（老屋老路，訴說著一個個關(guān)于古村的故事作者：佚名）
　　厚重悠長的人文底蘊
　　自古以來，坳上村人文興盛。當(dāng)?shù)卮迕窭罨匮拷榻B，坳上村以“李”姓為主姓，長期以來“大戶人家”頗多，并且人才輩出。最為人們所津津樂道的，當(dāng)屬得到清代名儒“湘綺老人”王闿運親筆題送祝壽匾的李友柏老人。在痕跡斑駁的古屋里，你可以看到，那塊題有“朝杖揚輝”字樣的祝壽匾，落款為“李公友柏老先生八旬晉一大慶”，時間是中華民國三年仲秋月下浣立。
　　封建王朝時代，老人年八十以上被稱為“朝杖之年”，意即可以拄拐杖上朝，“朝杖”一詞也由此而來?！跋婢_老人”為李友柏老先生所題的賀詞，意寓老人老當(dāng)益壯，即使已經(jīng)拄杖，仍能發(fā)光發(fā)熱、為國效力。王闿運與李友柏究竟是什么關(guān)系，我們已經(jīng)無從查考，但作為被袁世凱任命為國史館館長的他，在自己也是八十一歲高齡的朝杖之年題匾祝壽，其中只怕也還是頗有淵源的。
　　游走于坳上古村，欣賞遍布其中的民間藝術(shù)，也是一種不錯的享受。這里的歷史風(fēng)貌保存完好，三雕（磚雕、石雕、木雕）圖案精美、工藝精湛且數(shù)量較多，檐藝、牌匾更是隱藏著許多傳說和事跡。在村內(nèi)，隨處可見各種清新、秀麗的雕花藝術(shù)，精美細(xì)膩的文財神石雕，寓意主人向往讀書和做官；氣勢洶洶的貔貅，是家家戶戶鎮(zhèn)宅辟邪之寶；匠心獨具的各種木雕形態(tài)各異，栩栩如生。94歲老人段貴生保留的一張以“鳳舞九天”為主題的木雕床，到她這一輩已經(jīng)歷了三代，有100多年的歷史，從未修補過，卻仍然金光璀璨，浮凸清晰，令人嘖嘖稱奇。古村集書法、繪畫、浮雕于一體的屋檐裝飾藝術(shù)、以“文忠世第”、“業(yè)紹平泉”、“齊名三俊”等為彰顯的各種牌匾，歷經(jīng)風(fēng)雨數(shù)百年卻仍清晰生動，同樣教人贊嘆不已。
◎
（古老的坳上，如今煥發(fā)出新的生機作者：黃建華）
　　老風(fēng)俗和新風(fēng)貌
　　坳上古村里還保留著傳統(tǒng)的風(fēng)俗和美食味道。比如，炸套環(huán)……走入村民李照儒家，兩三個婦人正在炸套環(huán)。只見一人取糯米浸透磨成粉，將粉炒至能捏成團時，加入適量紅糖汁、芝麻，趁熟揉至成條，再搓成小圓條，靠成形狀不一的花環(huán)；另一人則用噴香的茶油將食材炸至金黃……剛出爐的油炸套環(huán)味道可口，軟硬適中，讓人吃了一個還想再吃一個。今年63歲的李照儒，是郴州坳上古村油炸套環(huán)的第九代傳人。老人依稀記得，兒時還不知道這叫“套環(huán)”，每天就跟著父親、母親屁股后面要吃“金圈圈”，在沒有零食的年代，這神奇的“金圈圈”就是他兒時最大的滿足。
　　出門、拐角，再轉(zhuǎn)至74歲村民李謙儒家。老人正在釀制黑米酒。黑糯米谷煮熟，發(fā)酵、封存一個月，再放置鍋中過濾，被穿過一小截竹筒，釀出來的黑米酒口感醇和、香甜暖胃，是許多村民的大愛。逢年過節(jié)，喜慶之時，邀約附近的鄉(xiāng)鄰，聚在一起吃套環(huán)、品米酒、話家常，是村民們最熱衷的事情。金黃香脆的“套環(huán)”、醇厚綿長的米酒、嫩滑鮮美的現(xiàn)磨豆腐、漸已少見的“米炮”、軟硬適口的脆皮狗肉、干辣開胃的捆腳……這些引發(fā)游人們陣陣驚嘆的美味及其制作過程，對土生土長的坳上村民來說，仿佛已經(jīng)融入了他們的生活。而正是這樣的豁達(dá)、隨意與從容，帶給了他們和睦、有愛、溫厚的民情風(fēng)尚，讓人好生羨慕。

攻略制作隊伍

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本攻略最后修訂時間：2016年02月16日

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引用遠(yuǎn)方網(wǎng)友于 2016-02-24 21:11:15

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